University of Arizona researchers from October 2013 to May 2014 conducted a study analyzing the language of food on social media and mapped the results according to popularity of “hashtags” by state. Californians are apparently still experiencing #caviardreams, while the #soysauce flows freely in Montana. Nevada and Wisconsin can’t get enough #sauerkraut and Wyoming raves about (what’s rumored to be this year’s kale) #watercress. Here in Florida, we aren’t tweeting about Key Lime pie or oranges, but rather, grits. An overwhelming majority—nine states in total—are all about the #grits.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVAN SIGMUND
Grits consist of small broken grains of corn and are traditionally stone-ground in antique mills. I took to Instagram after reading this research to conduct my own independent study and the first food photo that popped up in my feed was a picture of shrimp and, you guessed it, grits. Scrolling back through my history and looking at Facebook and TripAdvisor revealed further proof that Sarasota is firmly on the grits bandwagon—especially when fresh-caught Gulf Shrimp are a factor.
The legend of shrimp and grits traces back to Carolina Low Country where its creation is attributed to hungry shrimp fisherman. It makes sense, therefore, that Sarasotans embrace this simple Southern seafood dish, as the area was built on the backs of industrious fisherman long before fanciful circus performers entertained it.
Chef Derek Barnes doesn’t often take pictures of his food, but he couldn’t help documenting the recent trip he and his wife took to Charleston, South Carolina—another state caught up in #grits fever. They visited eighteen restaurants in four days, pictures were called for. Barnes is still a small town Indiana boy at heart and, despite a James Beard Award nomination and a devoted foodie fan base, he likes to keep it simple. He’s happy to be a part of the community in north Bradenton. He and his family live there, his two children attend school there, and he’s exceedingly grateful that, as of this past year, he also works there. Derek’s Rustic, Coastal, Cuisine opened December of 2013 and the clean, comfortable space is dressed in shades of wood and filled with cozy booths. Signs out front implore guests to “Come Hungry”and “Leave Happy.” Derek and his restaurant exude the same vibe: welcoming, relaxed and inclusive. He wanted to create an environment that encouraged conversation and warmth. There’s a thoughtful children’s menu and Derek says the intention is deliberate: “I want my restaurant to be a place that you can bring your family to and share a delicious meal any night of the week.”
I ask him about the inclusion of shrimp and grits as an entrée on the dinner menu, and he professes a childhood affinity for grits even though his home state, Indiana, has moved on to #gyros. This is shrimp and grits by Chef Derek Barnes, and as simple and casual as he is, the food is still complex in the best way, with layered flavors and textures. It begs to be photographed before being devoured. The shrimp are 10/15s (a unit of measurement that denotes size by noting how many shrimp come per pound) and are, of course, caught locally. Chef Derek renders Andouille sausage in a pan before sautéing the White Gulf Shrimp to order. The grits are Anson Mills and prepared using aged sharp white cheddar. A sinfully dark rich roux reminiscent of gumbo is used to sauce the plate and there’s a garnish of watercress with balsamic vinegar and honey and roasted sweet bell peppers that adds a sweet tang to the dish. These shrimp and grits perfectly represent Derek’s menu and philosophy that “keeping it simple” doesn’t mean dumbing it down.
Meanwhile, in Sarasota, there’s a small café in a strip mall on Fruitville Road that’s so busy producing tasty seafood meals that there are, what looks to be, 10 attractive young men working the line in the open kitchen. There’s a buzz of conversation and camaraderie and the high ceilings, large windows and diligent group of men put me in a fish market in Boston or New York. The energy in the air is both compelling and interactive and it has me expecting fresh fish to go flying through the air at any moment. This is KaCey’s Seafood and More from the owners of The Lazy Lobster, and it’s quickly become a staple for casual seafood in south Sarasota. The tongue-in-cheek menu features tried and true favorites like a fried fish and chips basket with coleslaw, and hush puppies alongside inspired dishes such as salmon grilled in a jalapeno and honey orange glaze. Cincinnati Chili and BBQ Baby Back Ribs are examples of the “and More” and the Cod-Zilla Fish Sandwich is as tasty as it is aptly named. What casual Southern seafood menu would be complete without grits?
The shrimp and grits at KaCey’s Seafood and More are prepared using Gulf Shrimp and there is cheddar in the grits but any similarity to Derek’s shrimp and grits end there. Chef Sergio Razo’s take includes 21/25s and the grits are dressed with a proprietary sauce that the manager Leon appears to be guarding with his life. He eyes me suspiciously as I write down his descriptions and I’m considering taking a part-time job at KaCey’s on the off chance that I’ll be included in the secret. The relish that tops the creamy grits is made from corn and bacon, and the result is a savory bowl of beautifully prepared comfort food. This is “a super popular dish” according to Leon and I’m suddenly picturing a flash mob ordering shrimp and grits and photographing their meals en masse before uploading and hashtagging in unison.
A list of the best and prettiest Shrimp and Grits dishes in Sarasota would be remiss without a nod to Owen’s Fish Camp in Downtown Sarasota. I love the back porch at Owen’s, there’s often a cat curled up asleep on one of the rockers, there’s always sparkly lights strung up, sometimes there’s live music. The restaurant itself is always filled with happy, hungry people chatting, laughing and filling up on jars of house made p âté or downing oyster shooters before enjoying a nice glass of wine with a fresh seafood dinner. It’s what I imagine a house party might look like for the Dean of Students at a culinary school in a small New England fishing village.
I’d be willing to say most Sarasota residents think of Owen’s Fish Camp when they think simple Southern seafood, and the shrimp and grits is no exception. The shrimp are large, juicy and local. The smoked sausage and extra creamy grits are dressed in a slightly spicy and extremely addictive red sauce. The Caragiulo brothers (themselves eminently hashtag-worthy) run some of my favorite restaurants in town and Owen’s Fish Camp is near the top of that list thanks to dishes like this one and attention to little details—I don’t think that cute kitty cat curled up on the porch wandered up there on his own just begging to be a trending hashtag on my Instagram, do you? SRQ
