Surrounded by searing smells of lime spritz and meat on the grill, a steady Latin beat and swaths of blues and greens and yellows splashed along the one muraled long wall, the inside of Cevichela hums with energetic Miami heat. Though small, Chef Darwin Santa Maria’s new hole-in-the-wall Siesta Key outpost belies a much larger history, dating back to his childhood in Peru, through to his breakout position at Fred’s restaurant (now Libby’s), to opening a host of acclaimed restaurants (see Selva Grill, Darwin’s on Fourth, Darwin’s Brewery) and now to his “grab and go” ethos. Smack dab in the middle of the colossal hand-written-on-the-wall menu, under Chef’s Specials, a deceptively meager dish unites Santa Maria’s many stories in one modest to-go container: Chef Darwin’s Skirt Steak and Eggs.

Step one: the “famous” chimichuri. “Usually made from just chopped herbs, my recipe is set apart because I purée all my herbs, garlic and spices and add vinegar, with a couple secret ingredients thrown in,” says Chef Darwin. Where does the recipe come from? He first ran it as a special at Fred’s Restaurant, circa 2000. Step two: sweet plantains. Green plantains are left in the kitchen until overripe, then sliced, fried and tossed with molasses. Notice: you’ll find the plantains still chilling on Selva’s menu, a legacy left by Chef Darwin. Step three: beet relish. Roasted with the skin on and subsequently peeled, the beet’s innards dice into teeny, mildly sweet cubes mixed with the crunchy tips of sautéed asparagus. Step four: the meat. Rare, medium or well—regardless, tender slices sit atop the sweet plantains, perfectly salted, setting off the syrupy, vinegary, earthy tone underneath. Finally: huevos. Fried. Simple. Runny. “I’ve had the steak and chimichurri dish for 15 years since I started Selva,” says Chef Darwin. “I just added the egg. Now, you’ve got breakfast, lunch and dinner in one plate, ready for the beach.”

Cevichela, 5110 Ocean Blvd., Siesta Key, 941-349-0818.