When people think of Hawaii they think of palm trees and perfect beaches. They picture beautiful people riding great-looking waves and looking good while doing it. They envision late night luaus, drinks with little paper hats and fast friends drawn close by the heat of the fire. They don’t think of the SPAM. Over at Lelu Coffee Lounge, owner Jenny Smith thinks of the SPAM. Please, think of the SPAM.

Looking like a transplant straight from Hawaii’s North Shore, Lelu evokes surf shack charm in spades, where under a high roof thatched with palm and within a weathered plank exterior reclaimed in blue paint, regulars move as silhouettes through a flood of natural light or congregate in groups on the outside patio. Sometimes, they eat SPAM. “People come here specifically for it,” says Smith. “It’s the most amazing thing I have seen.” Dubbed The Hawaiian, Smith’s best-selling breakfast marries traditional scrambled eggs with diced SPAM, topped with jalapeños and grilled pineapple. And although she admits some customers are skeptical, many end up as converts. The key, she says, and what most people don’t understand about SPAM, is that it still needs to be cooked. Just because it comes in a can doesn’t mean it’s supposed to be eaten from the can like a culinary heathen. Smith sears hers, almost like a pan-fry, to brown the meat, firm up the texture and create a caramelized crunchy exterior. Served with toast and avocados or potatoes, customers can now swap scrambled eggs for fried, but the SPAM stays.

Smith wasn’t born in Hawaii, though people ask often and she supposes part of her soul belongs there, where SPAM can be found in every food truck and every restaurant from high to low. Maybe one day she’ll plant a Lelu Coffee Lounge somewhere on the islands, but for now she’s doing her own part to spread the gospel of this tinned and tasty marvel here. “Of all the fresh products and everything that’s homemade and local,” she sighs with playful exasperation, “and one of my best-sellers is SPAM.”  

Lelu Coffee Lounge, 5251 Ocean Blvd., Siesta Key, 941-346-5358.