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Taste: Sensational Sides
When it comes to the art of food, the entrée may be what’s playing on the main stage, but the more interesting (and often more enjoyable) acts are often the ones playing on the smaller stages. They’re the side dishes, and we’ve noticed a recent renaissance in the realm of lunchtime sides with options that extend past potato salad and coleslaw. At these restaurants, when you’re asked, “Would you like a side with that?” you’ll know exactly what to answer. We have a feeling you might even demand an encore.
Hummus at The Flying Dog Café
Step inside the large warehouse space this café inhabits (just north of the airport), and you’ll quickly realize it’s not your typical run-of-the-mill restaurant. The walls are hued with funky colors—whimsical paintings of dogs adorning them—and ceiling fans that look like airplane propellers hang from the tall ceilings. Lucky for us, the space isn’t the only thing that’s unique. The restaurant’s manager, Mark Ragan, says they wanted to offer something a little different, which is why Flying Dog Café has a homemade garlic and red pepper hummus and pita as a side option. Add a little of their house-made “Cu-Sabi” dressing on top, and you’ve got a healthy side dish with a kick. They also offer mushrooms marinated in olive oil and red pepper flakes as another unique side to accompany one of their overstuffed sandwiches like (our favorite) the SRQ with roast beef, bacon, horseradish and provolone. 500 Tallevast Rd., Sarasota, 941-359-9788
Banana Bread at Citrus Café
We’re not letting salads off scot-free here. Serving an inventive bread on the side of a savory salad can make eating greens a lot more fun. That’s probably why people have been known to order a salad at Citrus just to receive the thick slice of banana bread that comes with it. The thought of eating only the cinnamon-spiced banana bread will cross your mind, but don’t forget to eat your veggies, too. The Garden Salad doesn’t skimp on those—with slices of yellow squash, tomato quarters and broccoli florets, you won’t feel bad about eating every last bite of the sweet banana bread for dessert. 543 S. Pineapple Ave., Sarasota, 941-957-0432
Hashbrown Casserole at The Breakfast Nook
This down-home eatery’s loyal regulars come for the hot coffee and hearty three-egg omelettes like the “Smothered Southern,” stuffed with bacon, ham, sausage, onion, pepper and covered with sausage gravy. Don’t fill up on your entrée though; make sure to save room for The Breakfast Nook’s signature dish—the cheesy Hashbrown Casserole (available at breakfast and lunch). Manager Lori Mariani says, “It’s comfort food. It’s right up there with macaroni and cheese. Once people try it, they love it.” When the steaming dollop of creamy goodness—a blend of shredded potatoes, sautéed onions, cream of chicken soup and cheddar cheese—arrives on your plate, your fork will go straight for the crunchy, cornflake top. One bite, and you’ll be hooked on “The Nook.” 423 10th Ave. W., Palmetto, 941-721-9393; 5942 34th St. W., Bradenton, 941-727-0675
Homemade Potato Chips at Mattison’s
Chips straight out of the bag are addictive enough, but just wait until you taste Mattison’s homemade crisps. You’ll never go back to the bag again. Mattison’s Riverside gets chips right. They start with super-thinly-sliced potatoes, flash-fry them to make them perfectly crispy without being greasy and then finish them off with salt and pepper. The crisps make a light and crunchy match to the yummy sandwiches they accompany, like the Portobello Mushroom Sandwich that is covered in caramelized onions, roasted red peppers, smoked Gouda and roasted garlic. And, although it’s only available at dinnertime, the Stuffed Tomato at Mattison’s Steakhouse is another side dish worth mentioning, given that some patrons order the Chateaubriand just to get the tomato. Filled with zucchini, breadcrumbs, garlic and fresh basil, this is one hot tomato—whose fans would love to see added to the lunchtime menu. Chef Paul, how about it? Mattison’s Riverside, 1200 First Ave. W., Bradenton, 941-748-8087; Mattison’s Steakhouse at The Plaza, 525 Bay Isles Parkway, Longboat Key, 941-387-2700
—By Amy Costantino Imerman, Photos by Salvatore Brancifort
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