At Bulgogi House —the newly-opened, grill-at-the-table Korean spot that opened last year on Main Street —a persistent white noise permeates. It’s beneath the low hum of appliances, the light clattering of metal utensils and the indistinguished murmur of human voices. It’s more of a sizzle. You hear it as you walk by the booths, each with their own grill grate embedded in the table. You see it in the upturned corners of thinly sliced brisket. And you smell it. That the concept is already firing on all cylinders should come as no surprise. It’s grilled meat, after all. But it’s also the third location for owner and general manager Parker Piao, who co-founded the concept that has two Orlando locations. The booths are thoughtfully arranged, the buildout considered the specialized needs of the embedded grills and the menu includes a no-nonsense assortment of single plates, a la carte selections, all-you-can-eat options and sides.

PARKER PIAO HELMS BULGOGI HOUSE’S THIRD LOCATION; A SHORT RIB STEAK GETS FLIPS FOR SOME SIZZLE AND SEAR ON THE OTHER SIDE.
Because the all-you-can-eat experience is the most adventurous option, here’s how it works. You take a seat at your table, order drinks and the server fires up the grill. Meat and vegetable selections are made and they’re deposited at your table a few minutes later along with some grilling implements like tongs, scissors and a chunk of beef fat to coat the grill. Included with every all-you-can-eat meal are plenty of appetizers—spicy soybean soup, steamed egg, white rice, macaroni, cheese corn (cooked on the grill), kimchi, tomato salad, broccoli and a house salad lovingly doused in a sesame oil chili dressing.

BULGOGI HOUSE, 1472 MAIN STREET, SARASOTA, 941-559-5678, BULGOGIHOUSEFL.COM, @BULGOGIHOUSE.SARASOTA
There are eight bottomless options in the Basic offering, including: beef brisket, marinated beef bulgogi, beef belly, marinated chicken breast, pork thin belly, marinated pork shoulder, pork belly, marinated pork belly and marinated veggies. The Prime offering adds LA galbi, beef top blade, beef tongue, NY steak, short rib steak, pork jowl, shrimp and salmon. Please note: it’s not required to order one of everything—but it is an option.
All of the included appetizers are delicious, though the soybean soup, cheese corn and salad stand out. The cuts of beef, many of which are unique to Korean cuisine, come from Korean suppliers. The LA galbi—galbi for rib, LA for the LAteral cut—is wonderfully marbled, as is the marinated pork belly. But really, anything with the word “marinated” is a must-try. That’s because the restaurant must, first and foremost, nail the magic in its very name (bulgogi). The word translates into “fire meat,” but more commonly refers to the savory blend of soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic, ginger and other spices that vary from wok to wok. Just don’t ask Piao what’s in his unless the word “no” excites you. The bulgogi marinade is a fantastic complement to the abundant meat options. It’s sweet, it’s savory and it adds to the mouth-watering experience of meat off the grill. It’s also the single biggest contributor to the sound of sizzle.
However, the marinade does tend to hide another secret-ish ingredient at Bulgogi House, which is the small lumps of charcoal placed inside the grill. To truly capture that flavor, one of the thicker cuts of meat is recommended. Let the short rib or NY steak linger and they’ll absorb a bit more of that smoky essence. And try the soju—a Korean rice wine with about the same alcohol content as a boozy wine. It goes down easy and won’t take up much space—an important attribute when the meal is all about the sizzle and sear.