A man walks up to a doctor, clutching his abdomen. “What brings you in today?” the doctor asks. The man furrows his brow, pats his stomach and considers his response carefully. “I heard the brisket is pretty good, so I’ll have that,” says the man. This is the kind of borderline-absurd interaction someone might find themselves in at Smoke & Fire—the smoked BBQ joint that opened this past summer on the corner of Clark Road and Sarah Avenue. That’s because the owner, operator and pitmaster is Dr. Todd Horiuchi, an internist with a thriving private practice by day and a (meat) smoking habit on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Dr. Horiuchi is no stranger to smoke and fire. He enjoys a good cigar, for one. He and his wife, Jen also enjoyed hosting BBQ dinner parties for years. But it wasn’t until a fateful trip to a BBQ bootcamp that Dr. Horiuchi dove into the sublime, nuanced world of meat rendered in smoke. Down the rabbit hole he went, honing his skills, studying the art of temperature and smoke management. And, along the way, between the clinking of rocks glasses, he kept spitballing the idea of a brick-and-mortar concept with friends.

One of those friends is Chef Nick Seth-Ward, who brings his rich fine dining experience to Smoke & Fire. Together, the pair has put together a menu of BBQ staples that measure up to some of the best in town.  Helping them make the case is a staunch commitment to using oak wood rather than the more convenient and manageable pellets. “The pellets just seem like a shortcut to me,” says Dr. Horiuchi, “and oak wood gives us the flavor we’re going for.”

Taking center stage is, unsurprisingly, their Texas-style smoked brisket. Where the bark of other briskets can be a little firm, peppery and charred beyond recognition, this one is more tender and moist. That’s likely a delightful consequence of a miso-based steam bath incorporated into the process. “We’re always looking for that umami bomb,” says Dr. Horiuchi. Which would explain the rich, unctuous flavor profile present in every layer of brisket. The word “smooth” comes to mind. A buttermilk-brined chicken leg quarter gets a simple seasoning rub, and makes a fantastic excuse for trying all of the scratch-made sauces. The sweet sauce is arguably the most balanced, thanks in part to a whisper of heat. The pulled pork is unfathomably juicy and savory, hardly requiring much in the way of sauce at all. 

But the ribs might be the real showstopper. Fall-off-the-bone tender and smoky as a campfire, the standout component is the firm, almost sticky outer layer. It’s a touch sweet with a light peppery bite. Like the pulled pork, some diners might find themselves enjoying these sans sauce. The standout side is undoubtedly the mac and cheese. Dr. Horiuchi and Chef Seth-Ward experimented quite a bit before settling on a blend of cheddar, parmesan and gruyere. Parmesan is high in glutamate, the key chemical component of umami, while the cheddar and gruyere help make it creamy but not gooey. 

The cornbread has a nice, firm outer crust with a sweet and fluffy interior that’s perfect for sopping up any remnant juices on the wax paper. Or, it can sop up the savory potlikker of the collard greens. 16-hour baked beans are tasty but feature what is perhaps a too-heavy pour of whisky. And a mustardy potato salad—Mrs. Horiuchi’s recipe and Dr. Horiuchi’s favorite dish at home—eats more coolly and lightly than more mayonnaise-heavy variations. 

If by chance you’ve left room for dessert, try the brioche bread pudding, or what Smoke & Fire has lovingly named Banana Dream—a sort of deconstructed banana pudding with layered graham cracker, chocolate, caramel, banana and whipped cream. That Smoke & Fire is headed by a relative newcomer to professional cooking might make seasoned pitmasters bristle. But there’s meticulous attention to detail. Dr. Horiuchi says things like “molecular level” that make it clear he’s thought long and hard about the methods and quality. Though the restaurant is only open Friday-Sunday, Seth-Ward still comes in just about every day to tinker, experiment and perfect, including their Friday-only specials like bison filets. That’s why, here, smoking won’t kill ya’. But it’ll certainly fill ya’.