More Tang than a SweeTart

Good Bite

Isan Thai, 5758 S Tamiami Trail, 941-923-1232

Though lumping Southeast Asian cuisine together can feel distinctly like the Western tradition of pigeon-holing non-Western cultures, the history of the region—replete with all the usual trappings of empire like trade or war—lends itself to a number of common threads. From China and India, the region adopted many of the ingredients that find their way into most dishes. Rice, garlic, ginger and chilis abound, but, naturally, cultures in what would become modern-day Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and others also incorporated some of the ingredients native to their tropical climate. Coconut, kaffir lime, lemongrass, galangal and certain fruits like mango all make cameos in their richly flavored cuisines.

So much flavor makes its way into Southeast Asian cuisine, in fact, that even a party-platter comfort food like nam khao packs more tang than a SweeTart. Comprised of deep-fried rice balls mixed with ground seasoned meat, traditionally pork, the little croquettes are then broken down into chunks and tossed with chopped peanuts, shallots, cilantro, lime juice, fish sauce and whatever fresh fruits or vegetables its maker elects to use. At Isan Thai, which lists the dish by its Northern Thai name of naem clook, sliced ginger is used, giving the crispy rice salad that full-bodied flavor profile of sweet, spicy, sour and salty that is the hallmark of explosive Southeast Asian flavor.

That it’s listed as a salad belies its substantive, filling nature, but it does pair well with a pair of fresh spring rolls for those who might have outsized biceps to feed.

Isan Thai is open for curbside takeout and delivery through Bite Squad, 11am to 8:15pm Monday-Thursday, to 8:30 pm on Friday and Saturday, and 12pm to 8pm on Sunday. Takeout orders can be placed over the phone or online.

Isan Thai, 5758 S Tamiami Trail, 941-923-1232

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