Brine Seafood & Raw Bar, 2250 Gulf Gate Dr

Not that Sarasota has ever had a shortage of seafood restaurants, but at this point, seafood is officially on an upward trend again. Seabar opened late last year next to Gulf Gate Food and Beer, Triple Tail just joined the party at the Landings and Brine recently took over three conjoined spaces on Gulf Gate Avenue. Like all trends, this one likely emanates from a plurality of reasons. Seasonality and eating local are both extra trendy at the moment, and for Florida’s Gulf coast, that means all things water-based are enjoying a seat at the cool kids’ table.

At Brine, the menu won’t wow with over the top high-concept dishes, but what it promises are seafood plates that take the best of the sea and tweaks tried-and-true preparations just enough to make them their own. The Thai steamed mussels fit that description like a glove. Normally, mussels are just an excuse to consume large amounts of melted butter, garlic and lemon juice, but Brine found an inventive way to replace the decadence of mussels’ typical dressing. Coconut milk, lemongrass, cilantro, kaffir lime and a touch of red chili give these mollusks more pep and complexity than butter and garlic, but the gravy still manages to taste as rich and creamy as its dairy counterpart. Do not forget to squeeze the lime that comes with the bowl.

Bonus tip: the accompanying bread is a less embarrassing way to drink up the remaining Thai curry than sucking it through a straw.

Brine Seafood & Raw Bar, 2250 Gulf Gate Dr

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