Whitney's, 6990 Gulf of Mexico Dr., Longboat Key

By the time I got to St. Armand’s circle on Easter Sunday, I was still only halfway there. It would be another ten miles up the narrow key, a straight-ish and scenic shot past golf courses, lush banyan trees and enough waterfront mansions to make me think I’m in the wrong profession. But once the county line was crossed into Manatee, the homes got a little older, the vibe more fishing village than retirement resort. And there, on the sleepy northern half of Longboat Key, I found a restaurant so perfectly matched with its Old Florida context that it seemed as though I might find Hemingway seated inside, working on a third cocktail and grumbling about his bad luck fishing that morning.

Decorated in coral and teal pastels, the late morning light bounces off the tiled and polished surfaces of Whitney’s like the dreamy glow of a Rockwell painting. Massive garage doors on both sides of the establishment create a gentle cross breeze that sneaks in through the dense landscaping that surrounds this little oasis. The brunch menu features an assortment of items with recognizable names, but always with a little twist to let you know the year is 2021 and not 1950. The egg sammy comes with over medium eggs, thick and crispy bacon, cheese, garlic aioli and tomato slices, with fries served on the side. Simple enough, to be sure, but the cheese used is manchego. Nutty and creamy, the manchego also honors the Spanish roots of the Bay Area while the garlic aioli offers just enough punch to make it exciting. The bacon, cooked to the perfect crispiness, breaks up the soft textures of the eggs and bread. Generously salted, the fries complement a peach bellini about as well as anything could.

Whitney's, 6990 Gulf of Mexico Dr., Longboat Key

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