Pictured: Reynas Taqueria sopes bring impressive flavor combinations when combined with chef Gino Callejas house-made salsas. Photo courtesy of Reynas Taqueria.

When you tell people you’re a food writer, there’s one common question that typically follows. It starts with, “Have you been to …” and ends with the name of a restaurant they love. Since rejoining SRQ, I’ve heard Ryena’s Taqueria mentioned at the end of that question more than any other.

My friends (and even a couple strangers) rave about it. They crave the tortas, tamales (available on Saturdays), tinga molotes, and of course the tacos, burritos and quesadillas. But on a recent Friday visit, I was there for the sopes.

For anyone unfamiliar, sopes are round, a little bigger than a beverage coaster, about a half-inch thick, and made from masa harina corn flour, salt, water and shortening. These simple ingredients are combined, shaped into patties, and deep fried to create a base — nay, a canvas — upon which chef and owner Gino Calleja creates a pile of art.

Calleja opened Reyna’s four years ago, naming it after his mother and using many of her recipes. The passion with which he speaks about his food and the restaurant, and the love he  has for sharing it is reflected in each bite. You get a sense that there’s history behind each choice, each ingredient, and each combination he crafts.

Reyna’s offers 11 protein options, including barbacoa (chef Gino’s favorite), campechano, chorizo, carnitas, cod, shrimp and a veg option. I ordered two, which was perfect for lunch: the chicken tinga and pastor versions.

Both were perfectly seasoned, expertly cooked, and precisely portioned so that each bite had a bit of zippy, tender, meaty goodness.

Tying it all together were the salsas that Calleja brought out for us to try. There was the avocado salsa, which comes with every dish served there. As a signature flavor, its initial tanginess gives way quickly to a robust flavor that complements its recipient rather than overpowering it. The roja salsa is smoky and bold, bringing out the full flavor of the roasted chile peppers and tomatoes. My favorite by far was the mango habañero. Something about the sweet-meets-spice — and this one did have a big ol’ kick to it — just made the sopes come to life and evolve with each beautiful bite.

As transplanted Chicagoan, I was admittedly bummed when the Chicago chain Rosati’s Pizza & Pub vacated this Sarasota Commons location prior to Reyna’s arrival. Seeing how Calleja has transformed it into an expression of his love for authentic Mexican cuisine is enough to give anyone a shot of joy. And it’s clearly time for me to start asking my friends, “Have you been to Reyna’s yet?”

Reyna’s Taqueria, Sarasota Commons, Suite 701, 935 N. Beneva Rd., Sarasota, 941-228-6456.

Pictured: Reynas Taqueria sopes bring impressive flavor combinations when combined with chef Gino Callejas house-made salsas. Photo courtesy of Reynas Taqueria.

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