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The Dish: Alchemical Kitchen
Chef Dylan Elhajoui’s Marseille dessert is a triumph of construction and a layer flavors. Each of three silky hemispheres contains its own delicate balance of tastes that positively bloom when combined, unfolding into new congruencies and correspondences. Chocolate glassage miroire conceals an even richer chocolate mousseline, a thick cocoa veil shielding a raspberry crème brulée core, and perched atop a wafer of hazelnut, puff pastry and rum macerated currants, rolled impossibly thin. This alone would be enough, until mixed with the scoop of Pernod citrus sorbet, interlocking the licorice and herb flavor of anise with the mousseline’s rich chocolate and refreshing drizzles of berry coulis. In the midst of this great lightening, a scoop of Gianduja semifreddo and an arcing cinnamon tuille bring it back to Earth, even more complex and alluring than at first taste. A glass of Moscato D’asti adds further notes of peach and mango for flavors that, in rapture, go on and on forever.
MoZaic, 1377 Main St., Sarasota, 941-951-6272
—By Brian Hughes, Photography by Mark Sickles
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